Shishapangma 2011 – RO
Intre 25 August 2011 si 10 Octombrie 2011 “Alpine Style Expeditions” a organizat in beneficiul Fundatiei Li Ka Shing (Hong Kong) si a Universitatii Shantou (China) o expeditie in Himalaya. Liderii expeditiei: Cosmin Andron si Waiwah Yip Din Romania au mai participat: Cristina Pogacean (atlet sponsorizat) si Catrinel Pogacean (BC manager) Obiectivele acestei expeditii au fost: (1) organizarea unor cursuri de alpinism pentru un grup de 20 de studenti si 4 profesori din cadrul STU (zona Shishapangma) (2) realizarea unui documentar despre experienta studentilor in expeditie, documentar realizat de catre o casa de productie din Hong Kong (10 staff – cameramani, sunetisti, producator si regizor) (3) incercarea de a deschide un traseu nou, tehnic, in stil alpin pe peretele sud-vestic al Shishapangma (un atlet de origine chineza, sponsorizat de LKSF urmand a fi ghidat) (4) in limita timpului disponibil o ascensiune a Cho Oyu pe traseul normal in maniera “self…
So Much Light (Alpinist #35) A writing piece from 2011 about climbing Cassin Ridge on Denali.
The Climbing Life Pointillism on Castle Mountain. Stream-of-consciousness on Denali. Enlightenment and burger grease in Montana. Several ascents of Slawston Bridge. And the story of Tami Knight’s first mountain. Click here to get Alpinist Magazine Issue 35 – Summer 2011
New route on Les Aiguilles Rouges, massif du Mont-Blanc – Le Brevent SE face
On 16 April 2011 Geordie (Waiwah Yip) and myself climbed our way up a new route “Lost in Translation” on Le Brevent (Les Aiguilles Rouges, massif du Mont-Blanc) above Chamonix. We left in the early afternoon with the intent of climbing ‘Frison Roche’ but a walk down the ski slope and the snow accumulation at the base of the wall which we circumvented by two abseils deposited us way more to the left at the very base of the wall. We spotted a line and I climbed the first 35m pitch under the horrifying whistle of rockfall liberated from the wall by the early afternoon sun. Brick and coffee-table sized chunks wizzed by and I found solace under a small, illusory protecting, roof 35 or so meters up. Geordie carried on with the next three pitches – more a collection of curiously balanced rubble and interesting cracks. The last two…
Enjoying Odin (Review)
I hate cold! I love alpine climbing! Quite hard to reconcile the two and quite a lot of misery to have been through to do what I love. That until recently… Everything about going to climb in Alaska sounded exciting and fascinating. Everything in pictures looked cool and inviting. Everything but the dreadful ‘it’ll be cold as hell’ (well, if hell would be in reverse, but you get the point….). Arriving at home in two big boxes an Odin sleeping bag, a Sirius jacket, booties and mitts put a massive smile on my face. The warm sunrays of a beautiful spring day looked like the best omen. The Odin began its business as soon as ten days after being born, and it was a busy month. For thirty straight days it lay, literally, in between the cold and me. The bag weighs 1836g and packs incredibly small. Changing the original…
August 16 2010
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Climbing the “Cassin” on Denali – a solitary journey
1. It’s been snowing for days and I am going bonkers at the Ski Hill (NE Fork) camp (cca 2400 m alt.). Tent bound since the 13th of June I start doubting I’d be able to get on the “Cassin” on this trip and I’m getting sure my acclimatization is wearing out by the hour now… I’ve listened my music, I’ve read my books, I’ve weighted my options all the while the snow was incessantly falling… Then it’s 20th morning and the sun is shining and the skies are clear. Mark, back at KIA, mentioned something about a break in the weather for the weekend and I guess this must be it. I am weighting my options: go light – no tent, no sleeping bag just the stove, my Sirius down jacket and compressor pants and some bars and gels. Or plan for a three days ascent and go heavy:…
Why are you climbing, dude?
– What am I doing here? – Inching my way up – what a stupid question! – No – what am I actually doing here,? Like in ‘what the hell’ am I doing here? Still a stupid question – like the classic ‘why do you climb’? Difference is that I have neither a clever remark like Mallory’s nor a soapy one. I don’t even have a moronic answer! – Because it is a stupid question! That’s why! – Then why am I asking it? Here I am, half way up a hundred and something meter wall, it’s pitch dark and I’m nothing than an insect, a firefly with the speck of light from my torch shining on the ice encrusted rock. I am tapping gingerly on anorexic seams of ice and I reach for blind spots – blind as in devoid of light and blind because of overhangs. I’m loving…
Costila-Galbenele M6, 10 pitches, winter free solo, onsight
De data asta am avut grija sa pun ceasul sa sune la 4:30 AM si nu PM, cum facusem cu 20 de zile inainte… Am si verificat de vreo doua ori. Vremea se anunta proasta insa speram ca diferentele mari de temperature din ultimul timp imi vor oferi macar beneficiul ghetii. In rest, au englezii o vorba: There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing. 27 Februarie 2010 Ora 4:30 AM: suna alarma. N-am dormit prea bine noaptea de dinainte. M-am hotarit sa merg din nou in Costila pe moment, cu o seara inante, cind anulasem o tura in Fagaras, la Caltun. Am impachetat in graba si am baut, toata noaptea, 2L de apa. Justin nu parea prea incintat, mai ales dupa ce aflase prognoza meteo. Mi-am spus ca ajung acolo si iau deciziile la fata locului. Am mincat doua cutii de iaurt cu gem si o…
One up – one down.
29/30 January 2010 I’m at my mother’s house in Northern Transylania – I haven’t been home since Christmas and now, barely arrived from the train station, I’m getting my skis ready. I’m leaving in ’15… When I returned home from Asia, a year ago, I promised longer times at home – a promised I fell short off… In the evening, on the way back, the phone rings. Tomorrow it’s ice climbing – my partner tells me not to worry about a thing: ‘Just bring your axes and crampons. I’ll bring the rest. We are leaving at 7:30am. I’ll call you at 7:00.’ I’m dropping my skis off and I eat dinner. I’m actually talking with mom… true, about my skiing day, but I’m sharing…. I forget to ask though… Phone rings again. I’m off to the pub for a quick drink. 8 jack & coke and several hours later I’m…
Peretele Vaii Albe: ‘Ultimatum’
Simbata 1 august si duminica 2 august am incercat parcurgerea solitar a traseului lui Titus Gontea, Ultimatum. Un proiect ambitios, tinind cont ca din ce stiu este prima tentativa de repetare a traseului, s-a dovedit a fi mai mult decit pot eu sa fac in acest moment si am abandonat dupa parcurgerea unei lungimi si jumatate. Pentru mine traseul a fost cam mult – solitar, la vedere si pe o roca pe care nu am rulaj aproape deloc insa o experienta placuta. Fara ajutorul lui Justin si Vasile nu as fi reusit sa ajung la perete si le multumesc inca o data. La fel si lui Titus pentru beta si imi doresc sa aud cit de curind ca o echipa sau un temerar au reusit parcurgerea integrala, dintr-o singura intrare a unui traseu care este, inexplicabil si injust evitat.