a Climbing

Climbing

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I began climbing in 1989, when I was 13, near my home town (Baia Mare) located in a valley in the Carpathians, in the North of Transylvania (Romania). Neither I nor my partners had much knowledge of what we were doing: we used to climb in big boots and with home made ropes tied around our waists, much like in early 1950’s everywhere else. Everything was allowed – stepping on pitons, pulling on slings…

In 1991, while on a caving (!!!) workshop I saw a film that completely changed my perspective on rock climbing: La vie au bout du doigts (Life on fingertips) with and about the legendary French climber Patrick Edlinger. After that I improvised a harness from a car safety belt, some climbing shoes out of Chinese sneakers, patch up together a chalk-bag and tried to climb the same style like him. Was hard and much fun. By 1993 I was also into ice and alpine routes till an accident made me slow down for a while – bot not too long.

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I took this passion and developed it into a profession by becoming a mountain guide (as well as mountaineering and ski instructor), and as a consequence I also do freelance guiding and remote access consulting work.

I climbed extensively throughout Europe, the USA and after 2004 Asia and Africa as well. I established first ascents (trad, ice and mixed routes in both Europe and Asia) and I competed in national and international events in sport climbing.

Since 2003 I took part in several expeditions (by 2017 over 30…) of which more significant are:

2005
FA: of several ice falls in Shuangqiao gou, Sichuan, China
– Attempt of first ascent of Hunter’s Peak (Jianzishan, 5472 m) via NE face; alpine style, E Tibet
Daguniang shan (5025 m) E Tibet, normal route
Erguniang shan (5276 m) E Tibet, normal route

2006
– FA: Transilvania Avenue TD+ (6a, A0, M4) 270m, West buttress of Banji Feng North (5430 m), (FA of the North wall) Qionglai Shan, Eastern Tibet with Bob Keaty, 29-31 January 2006
FA: Evil Mogu WI3 200m, 3500m alt Bipeng gou, Eastern Tibet, partner Bob Keaty
FA: Suffering First Class V A3 5.10+ (possible free at 5.12) 400m  Siguniang Shan (6250 m), FA of the South West face of the fourth peak, Qionglai Shan, Eastern Tibet, partner Geordie Waiwah Yip, 5-8 July 2006

2007
– Attempt on the NW face of the fourth peak of Siguniang shan (6250 m) Eastern Tibet, Big wall style, team members: Leslie Fucsko, Ioan Neagoe, Emilian Camerzan, Liviu Neagoe, February 2007
FA: of an ice fall in Shuangqiao gou, Sichuan, China, partner Zhao Kai

2010
Solo Cassin Ridge, (Alaska grade V, 5.8, AI 4), Denali (6192 m), Alaska, 21-14 June 2010

2011
– Attempt on Pungpa Ri (7200 m) guiding, alpine style, Tibet.
– Shishapangma (8027 m) South West Face, attempt on a new line, alpine style. Retreat from around 7000 m. 2-4 October 2011, Tibet, with Cristina Pogacean and W. Yip.

2013
FA: Gandharva Chuli (6248 m), The Romanian Routealpine style (2000 m, TD+) with Cristina Pogacean (4-6 may 2013) by the SW ridge and W ridge, Annapurna himal, Nepal.
FA: Khhang Shiling (6360 m), NE face, alpine style (D), guiding (4 august 2013), with 8 other climbers, Himachal, India
Kullu Makalu (6349 m), N face, attempt of a new line, retreated from mid face. 9 august 2013, with Mihnea Prundeanu and Vasile Dumitrica, Himachal, India

2014
Bhagirathi I (6856 m), SW face, attempt of a new line. 27-29 September, Garwahl, India, with Cristina Pogacean

2016

T13  (6436 m), NW Ridge, attempt up to 5900m, 11 June 2016, Zanskar, India, with Cristina Pogacean, Prerna Dangi (IN) and Karn Kowshik (IN)
FAT16 South Summit (6431m), S face, “Supercouloir” +1200m, ED snow 75* max, WI 4+, M5/6, 6b, C1, 15-17 June 2016, Zanskar, India, with Cristina Pogacean

2017

FA: Monkey Business TD+ / 6a+, 4 September 2017, Karnak gorge, Ladakh India, with Cristina Pogacean

 

Besides these are double or more guiding expeditions I had the pleasure to enjoy with my clients on established routes in the Great Ranges.

 

Equipment sponsors:

   Idris valandre

 

Professional partners:

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