I began climbing in 1989, when I was 13, near my home town (Baia Mare) located in a valley in the Carpathians, in the North of Transylvania (Romania). Neither I nor my partners had much knowledge of what we were doing: we used to climb in big boots and with home made ropes tied around our waists, much like in early 1950’s everywhere else. Everything was allowed – stepping on pitons, pulling on slings…
In 1991, while on a caving (!!!) workshop I saw a film that completely changed my perspective on rock climbing: La vie au bout du doigts (Life on fingertips) with and about the legendary French climber Patrick Edlinger. After that I improvised a harness from a car safety belt, some climbing shoes out of Chinese sneakers, patch up together a chalk-bag and tried to climb the same style like him. Was hard and much fun. By 1993 I was also into ice and alpine routes till an accident made me slow down for a while – bot not too long.
I took this passion and developed it into a profession by becoming a mountain guide (as well as mountaineering and ski instructor), and as a consequence I also do freelance guiding and remote access consulting work.
I climbed extensively throughout Europe, the USA and after 2004 Asia and Africa as well. I established first ascents (trad, ice and mixed routes in both Europe and Asia) and I competed in national and international events in sport climbing.
Since 2003 I took part in several expeditions (by 2017 over 30…) of which more significant are:
2005
– FA: of several ice falls in Shuangqiao gou, Sichuan, China
– Attempt of first ascent of Hunter’s Peak (Jianzishan, 5472 m) via NE face; alpine style, E Tibet
– Daguniang shan (5025 m) E Tibet, normal route
– Erguniang shan (5276 m) E Tibet, normal route
2006
– FA: Transilvania Avenue TD+ (6a, A0, M4) 270m, West buttress of Banji Feng North (5430 m), (FA of the North wall) Qionglai Shan, Eastern Tibet with Bob Keaty, 29-31 January 2006
– FA: Evil Mogu WI3 200m, 3500m alt Bipeng gou, Eastern Tibet, partner Bob Keaty
– FA: Suffering First Class V A3 5.10+ (possible free at 5.12) 400m Siguniang Shan (6250 m), FA of the South West face of the fourth peak, Qionglai Shan, Eastern Tibet, partner Geordie Waiwah Yip, 5-8 July 2006
2007
– Attempt on the NW face of the fourth peak of Siguniang shan (6250 m) Eastern Tibet, Big wall style, team members: Leslie Fucsko, Ioan Neagoe, Emilian Camerzan, Liviu Neagoe, February 2007
– FA: of an ice fall in Shuangqiao gou, Sichuan, China, partner Zhao Kai
2010
– Solo Cassin Ridge, (Alaska grade V, 5.8, AI 4), Denali (6192 m), Alaska, 21-14 June 2010
2011
– Attempt on Pungpa Ri (7200 m) guiding, alpine style, Tibet.
– Shishapangma (8027 m) South West Face, attempt on a new line, alpine style. Retreat from around 7000 m. 2-4 October 2011, Tibet, with Cristina Pogacean and W. Yip.
2013
– FA: Gandharva Chuli (6248 m), The Romanian Route, alpine style (2000 m, TD+) with Cristina Pogacean (4-6 may 2013) by the SW ridge and W ridge, Annapurna himal, Nepal.
– FA: Khhang Shiling (6360 m), NE face, alpine style (D), guiding (4 august 2013), with 8 other climbers, Himachal, India
– Kullu Makalu (6349 m), N face, attempt of a new line, retreated from mid face. 9 august 2013, with Mihnea Prundeanu and Vasile Dumitrica, Himachal, India
2014
– Bhagirathi I (6856 m), SW face, attempt of a new line. 27-29 September, Garwahl, India, with Cristina Pogacean
2016
– T13 (6436 m), NW Ridge, attempt up to 5900m, 11 June 2016, Zanskar, India, with Cristina Pogacean, Prerna Dangi (IN) and Karn Kowshik (IN)
– FA: T16 South Summit (6431m), S face, “Supercouloir” +1200m, ED snow 75* max, WI 4+, M5/6, 6b, C1, 15-17 June 2016, Zanskar, India, with Cristina Pogacean
2017
– FA: Monkey Business TD+ / 6a+, 4 September 2017, Karnak gorge, Ladakh India, with Cristina Pogacean
Besides these are double or more guiding expeditions I had the pleasure to enjoy with my clients on established routes in the Great Ranges.
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