Cosmin Andron
  • ABOUT ME
  • CLIMBING
  • GUIDING
  • ACADEMIC & CONSULTANCY
    • Academic and professional career
    • Education and academic appointments
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Climbing

I began climbing in 1989, when I was 13, near my home town (Baia Mare) located in a valley in the Carpathians, in the North of Transylvania (Romania). Neither I nor my partners had much knowledge of what we were doing: we used to climb in big boots and with home made ropes tied around our waists, much like in early 1950’s everywhere else. Everything was allowed – stepping on pitons, pulling on slings…

In 1991, while on a caving (!!!) workshop I saw a film that completely changed my perspective on rock climbing: La vie au bout du doigts (Life on fingertips) with and about the legendary French climber Patrick Edlinger. After that I improvised a harness from a car safety belt, some climbing shoes out of Chinese sneakers, patch up together a chalk-bag and tried to climb the same style like him. Was hard and much fun. By 1993 I was also into ice and alpine routes till an accident made me slow down for a while – bot not too long.

I took this passion and developed it into a profession by becoming a mountain guide (as well as mountaineering and ski instructor), and as a consequence I also do freelance guiding and remote access consulting work.

I climbed extensively throughout Europe, the USA and after 2004 Asia and Africa as well. I established first ascents (trad, ice and mixed routes in both Europe and Asia) and I competed in national and international events in sport climbing.

Since 2003 I took part in several expeditions (by 2017 over 30…) of which more significant are:

2005
– FA: of several ice falls in Shuangqiao gou, Sichuan, China
– Attempt of first ascent of Hunter’s Peak (Jianzishan, 5472 m) via NE face; alpine style, E Tibet
– Daguniang shan (5025 m) E Tibet, normal route
– Erguniang shan (5276 m) E Tibet, normal route

2006
– FA: Transilvania Avenue TD+ (6a, A0, M4) 270m, West buttress of Banji Feng North (5430 m), (FA of the North wall) Qionglai Shan, Eastern Tibet with Bob Keaty, 29-31 January 2006
– FA: Evil Mogu WI3 200m, 3500m alt Bipeng gou, Eastern Tibet, partner Bob Keaty
– FA: Suffering First Class V A3 5.10+ (possible free at 5.12) 400m  Siguniang Shan (6250 m), FA of the South West face of the fourth peak, Qionglai Shan, Eastern Tibet, partner Geordie Waiwah Yip, 5-8 July 2006

2007
– Attempt on the NW face of the fourth peak of Siguniang shan (6250 m) Eastern Tibet, Big wall style, team members: Leslie Fucsko, Ioan Neagoe, Emilian Camerzan, Liviu Neagoe, February 2007
– FA: of an ice fall in Shuangqiao gou, Sichuan, China, partner Zhao Kai

2010
– Solo Cassin Ridge, (Alaska grade V, 5.8, AI 4), Denali (6192 m), Alaska, 21-14 June 2010

2011
– Attempt on Pungpa Ri (7200 m) guiding, alpine style, Tibet.
– Shishapangma (8027 m) South West Face, attempt on a new line, alpine style. Retreat from around 7000 m. 2-4 October 2011, Tibet, with Cristina Pogacean and W. Yip.

2013
– FA: Gandharva Chuli (6248 m), The Romanian Route, alpine style (2000 m, TD+) with Cristina Pogacean (4-6 may 2013) by the SW ridge and W ridge, Annapurna himal, Nepal.
– FA: Khhang Shiling (6360 m), NE face, alpine style (D), guiding (4 august 2013), with 8 other climbers, Himachal, India
– Kullu Makalu (6349 m), N face, attempt of a new line, retreated from mid face. 9 august 2013, with Mihnea Prundeanu and Vasile Dumitrica, Himachal, India

2014
– Bhagirathi I (6856 m), SW face, attempt of a new line. 27-29 September, Garwahl, India, with Cristina Pogacean

2016

– T13  (6436 m), NW Ridge, attempt up to 5900m, 11 June 2016, Zanskar, India, with Cristina Pogacean, Prerna Dangi (IN) and Karn Kowshik (IN)
– FA: T16 South Summit (6431m), S face, “Supercouloir” +1200m, ED snow 75* max, WI 4+, M5/6, 6b, C1, 15-17 June 2016, Zanskar, India, with Cristina Pogacean

2017

– FA: Monkey Business TD+ / 6a+, 4 September 2017, Karnak gorge, Ladakh India, with Cristina Pogacean

Besides these are double or more guiding expeditions I had the pleasure to enjoy with my clients on established routes in the Great Ranges.

Equipment sponsors:

   Idris valandre

Professional partners:

arcteryxsmall 

Articles

  • Academic (1)
  • Climbing (50)
  • Guiding (35)
  • Stuff, Travel & Issues (10)

Recent articles

Riscul in activitatile montane – o perspectiva –Tuesday 13 October, 2020
TMF Podcast – on philosophy, climbing and mountain guidingSaturday 11 July, 2020
Untracked – Alpinist Magazine Issue 56 – Winter 2016Sunday 20 January, 2019
Din nou despre ghizi v 2.0Sunday 12 August, 2018
Monkey business in the Karnak gorgeMonday 11 September, 2017
EPIC TV clip on fall factors and ropes breakingThursday 17 August, 2017
EEMGA si problematica profesiei de ghid montan in RomaniaThursday 6 April, 2017
Stok Kangri expedition – August 2017Tuesday 21 March, 2017
Curs de escalada la stanca – initiere (2017)Thursday 16 March, 2017
(c) Cosmin Andron 2000
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