Monkey business in the Karnak gorge
Words: Cosmin Andron Photography: Cristina Pogacean, Jonathan Parker, Cosmin Andron Ladakh 2017 We arrived in Delhi mid-August, hopeful and with loads of luggage. Cristina and Nasim (her partner) were aiming for H17 in the Zanskar valley, an unclimbed granite monolith. I was to join them as logistical support but I also had plans of my own: last year, during our T16 expedition, I noticed, on a side valley, a stunning mixed couloir that I wanted to attempt once the girls were up on their wall and if conditions were allowing. A day later we were in Leh where we spent half a week running after supplies, getting the luggage overland from Delhi (thank you Jaggi, Prerna and Gopal) trying to organise transport (with the help of our Ladakhi friends) and getting ready for departure. When Nasim arrived in Leh we were ready and we set off…
Bhagirathi I, SW face attempt (27-29 Sept 2014)
We established ABC on the right moraine of the Gangotri glacier and a day later (27/09) we moved up with backpacks a bit too heavy for what we were planning on doing…. The climb was entirely on rock (up to UIAA VI+).
Gandharva Chuli and the long list of Piolet d’Or 2014
<> Piolet d’Or website <> Nice props from “Tendon” <> Comunicatul Clubului Alpin Roman
First Ascent Khhang Shiling, 6360m by the NE Face & Attempt Kullu Makalu 6349m by the N Face
INDIA, BARA SHIGRI GLACIER First Ascent Khhang Shiling, 6360m by the NE Face Attempt Kullu Makalu 6349m by the N Face During 20 July – 10 August 2013 we have taken part in “Climbathon 2013”, an event organised and sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. From Romania we were 3 people: two guides (myself and Mr. Mihnea Prundeanu) and one student (Mr. Vasile Dumitrica). The event took part on the Bara Shigri area and had several objectives: exchange of information and experience between Indian mountaineers and Western mountaineers (besides Mr Prundeanu and myself there was another facilitator from Scotland/USA, Dr. Paul Schweizer); focus on alpine style ascents; the ascent of several peaks in the area. With 10 instructors (of which 3 foreign) and over 60 participants (of which, besides the Indian nationals there were also one from Brazil, one from Romania and one from Italy) this was…
Shishapangma 2011 – EN
In 2011 “Alpine Style Expeditions” Ltd organized and developed on behalf of “Li Ka Shing Foundation” (HK) and the University of Shantou (PRC) and in collaboration with “TRM” ltd and mountaineering program of which details we present below. With the final goal of opening a new route, alpine style, on the South West Face of the 8013m peak Shishapangma in the Tibetan Himalayas and introducing a group of 20 university (STU) students to the life and rigors of expedition life, the project started with compiling the various teams that were to take part in this project and their preparation. “Alpine Style Expeditions” was responsible of organizing the logistics, providing the safety staff and safety protocols, offer the climbing guides, the facilitation and instructional staff and prepare the climbing team. “TRM” was responsible of student coordination, liaison between the “Li Ka Shing Foundation”, “Shantou University” and “Alpine Style Expeditions” as well…
Shishapangma 2011 – RO
Intre 25 August 2011 si 10 Octombrie 2011 “Alpine Style Expeditions” a organizat in beneficiul Fundatiei Li Ka Shing (Hong Kong) si a Universitatii Shantou (China) o expeditie in Himalaya. Liderii expeditiei: Cosmin Andron si Waiwah Yip Din Romania au mai participat: Cristina Pogacean (atlet sponsorizat) si Catrinel Pogacean (BC manager) Obiectivele acestei expeditii au fost: (1) organizarea unor cursuri de alpinism pentru un grup de 20 de studenti si 4 profesori din cadrul STU (zona Shishapangma) (2) realizarea unui documentar despre experienta studentilor in expeditie, documentar realizat de catre o casa de productie din Hong Kong (10 staff – cameramani, sunetisti, producator si regizor) (3) incercarea de a deschide un traseu nou, tehnic, in stil alpin pe peretele sud-vestic al Shishapangma (un atlet de origine chineza, sponsorizat de LKSF urmand a fi ghidat) (4) in limita timpului disponibil o ascensiune a Cho Oyu pe traseul normal in maniera “self…
Climbing the “Cassin” on Denali – a solitary journey
1. It’s been snowing for days and I am going bonkers at the Ski Hill (NE Fork) camp (cca 2400 m alt.). Tent bound since the 13th of June I start doubting I’d be able to get on the “Cassin” on this trip and I’m getting sure my acclimatization is wearing out by the hour now… I’ve listened my music, I’ve read my books, I’ve weighted my options all the while the snow was incessantly falling… Then it’s 20th morning and the sun is shining and the skies are clear. Mark, back at KIA, mentioned something about a break in the weather for the weekend and I guess this must be it. I am weighting my options: go light – no tent, no sleeping bag just the stove, my Sirius down jacket and compressor pants and some bars and gels. Or plan for a three days ascent and go heavy:…