Category Archives: Climbing

Tendon Master 8.9 – Rope review   The specs tell by themselves a story but an incomplete one by far: At 8.9mm diameter and weighting 52g/m, the Tendon Master 8.9 is rated as single rope (it can be used by itself including on bolted / sport routes), as half rope (for example on trad or alpine routes together with a half rope) and as a twin rope (together with another twin rope on water-ice climbs for example). Nevertheless I do not believe that the option of using it as a twin rope bears any practical purpose in this case as for the given scenario I’d rather carry a 6mm tag-line in my backpack. Nevertheless, what the climber not too fussed with genuine statistics or gear factoids can learn from these are a few basic points: it’s light, it’s strong, it’s stretchy. In other words that means: it’s easy to carry,…

Read more

We established ABC on the right moraine of the Gangotri glacier and a day later (27/09) we moved up with backpacks a bit too heavy for what we were planning on doing…. The climb was entirely on rock (up to UIAA VI+).

Read more

Cinci oameni s-au unit din România, India și Spania pentru a duce mesajul Climb Again până și mai departe, pe vârful Oujdad din Munții Atlas, Maroc. Experiența a fost pe cât de emoționantă, pe atât de memorabilă, și sperăm să rămână un exemplu pentru oricine are nevoie de dovada că SE POATE. Expediția este dedicată tuturor persoanelor cu nevoi speciale și celor din jurul lor, care trebuie să le arate încrederea că limitele există pentru a fi depășite. Mulțumiri infinite “Alpine Style Expeditions” -Cosmin și Mihnea- pentru că i-au purtat pe Claudiu și Jaggi în siguranță până în vârf, Norei Dorian pentru fotografii și documentarul pe care îl pregătește, și partenerilor noștri, fără de care acest proiect nu ar fi fost posibil – Hope and Homes for Children Romania și Asociatia Assoc Baia Mare. Bravo Claudiu, bravo Jaggi! Keep overcoming the impossible!  /// Five climbers in Romania, India and Spain…

Read more

<> Piolet d’Or website <> Nice props from “Tendon” <> Comunicatul Clubului Alpin Roman  

Voie Caline Goulotte Chere Valee Blanche

INDIA, BARA SHIGRI GLACIER   First Ascent Khhang Shiling, 6360m by the NE Face Attempt Kullu Makalu 6349m by the N Face     During 20 July – 10 August 2013 we have taken part in “Climbathon 2013”, an event organised and sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. From Romania we were 3 people: two guides (myself and Mr. Mihnea Prundeanu) and one student (Mr. Vasile Dumitrica). The event took part on the Bara Shigri area and had several objectives: exchange of information and experience between Indian mountaineers and Western mountaineers (besides Mr Prundeanu and myself there was another facilitator from Scotland/USA, Dr. Paul Schweizer); focus on alpine style ascents; the ascent of several peaks in the area. With 10 instructors (of which 3 foreign) and over 60 participants (of which, besides the Indian nationals there were also one from Brazil, one from Romania and one from Italy) this was…

Read more

Interviu de George Stroie (Bivuac) Versiunea originala este aici: http://eclimb.ro/articole.php?crt=57&n=Gandharva_Chuli-o_premiera_in_Himalaya   de ce Gandharva Chuli ?   Din cel putin doua motive: pentru cum arata si pentru ca era, cum se spune uzual, virgin (o expresie nefericita cred eu). Am un ‘dosar’ cu proiecte – munti pe care i-am vazut in alte expeditii sau in poze, in carti sau pe internet. Toate aceste proiecte au in comun faptul ca prezinta munti interesanti, estetici, cu linii (trasee potentiale sau existente) frumoase, logice, naturale. Gandharva Chuli, mai exact peretele sau sud-vestic, era un astfel de munte intrezarit in niste poze dintr-un ghid de trekking al regiunii Annapurna. Alpinismul il vad, in principal, ca pe o aventura. O aventura care implica si un bagaj tehnic specific insa in esenta o aventura – la fel cum este o calatorie cu pluta pe ocean sau cu schiurile la poli. Spre deosebire de escalada care ma incanta…

Read more

Words by Lindsay Griffin Romanians Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean have made the first ascent of Ghandarbha Chuli, a snow and ice peak on the eastern rim of the Annapurna Sanctuary. Ghandarbha Chuli (a.k.a Gandharva, and formerly the Gabelhorn, 6,248m) lies on the ridge connecting Annapurna III (7,553m) to Macchapuchhare (6,993m), nearer to the latter. There have been no previous official attempts. Ghandarbha Chuli is on the permitted list as a peak that can only be attempted by foreign team if it forms a joint expedition with Nepalis. Including cooks and helpers the two Romanians had eight Nepalis on their expedition. The team set up base camp on the 2nd May at 3,857m (GPS), at the confluence of the Modi Khola and the river that runs north from Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak). Next day, with the help of some of their Nepalese companions, they made an advanced base below the…

Read more

In 2011 “Alpine Style Expeditions” Ltd organized and developed on behalf of “Li Ka Shing Foundation” (HK) and the University of Shantou (PRC) and in collaboration with “TRM” ltd and mountaineering program of which details we present below. With the final goal of opening a new route, alpine style, on the South West Face of the 8013m peak Shishapangma in the Tibetan Himalayas and introducing a group of 20 university (STU) students to the life and rigors of expedition life, the project started with compiling the various teams that were to take part in this project and their preparation. “Alpine Style Expeditions” was responsible of organizing the logistics, providing the safety staff and safety protocols, offer the climbing guides, the facilitation and instructional staff and prepare the climbing team. “TRM” was responsible of student coordination, liaison between the “Li Ka Shing Foundation”, “Shantou University” and “Alpine Style Expeditions” as well…

Read more

Intre 25 August 2011 si 10 Octombrie 2011 “Alpine Style Expeditions” a organizat in beneficiul Fundatiei Li Ka Shing (Hong Kong) si a Universitatii Shantou (China) o expeditie in Himalaya. Liderii expeditiei: Cosmin Andron si Waiwah Yip Din Romania au mai participat: Cristina Pogacean (atlet sponsorizat) si Catrinel Pogacean (BC manager) Obiectivele acestei expeditii au fost: (1) organizarea unor cursuri de alpinism pentru un grup de 20 de studenti si 4 profesori din cadrul STU (zona Shishapangma) (2) realizarea unui documentar despre experienta studentilor in expeditie, documentar realizat de catre o casa de productie din Hong Kong (10 staff – cameramani, sunetisti, producator si regizor) (3) incercarea de a deschide un traseu nou, tehnic, in stil alpin pe peretele sud-vestic al Shishapangma (un atlet de origine chineza, sponsorizat de LKSF urmand a fi ghidat) (4) in limita timpului disponibil o ascensiune a Cho Oyu pe traseul normal in maniera “self…

Read more

20/50