Tag Archives: First ascents

Words: Cosmin Andron Photography: Cristina Pogacean, Jonathan Parker, Cosmin Andron     Ladakh 2017   We arrived in Delhi mid-August, hopeful and with loads of luggage. Cristina and Nasim (her partner) were aiming for H17 in the Zanskar valley, an unclimbed granite monolith. I was to join them as logistical support but I also had plans of my own: last year, during our T16 expedition, I noticed, on a side valley, a stunning mixed couloir that I wanted to attempt once the girls were up on their wall and if conditions were allowing.   A day later we were in Leh where we spent half a week running after supplies, getting the luggage overland from Delhi (thank you Jaggi, Prerna and Gopal) trying to organise transport (with the help of our Ladakhi friends) and getting ready for departure. When Nasim arrived in Leh we were ready and we set off…

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<> Piolet d’Or website <> Nice props from “Tendon” <> Comunicatul Clubului Alpin Roman  

Words by Lindsay Griffin Romanians Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean have made the first ascent of Ghandarbha Chuli, a snow and ice peak on the eastern rim of the Annapurna Sanctuary. Ghandarbha Chuli (a.k.a Gandharva, and formerly the Gabelhorn, 6,248m) lies on the ridge connecting Annapurna III (7,553m) to Macchapuchhare (6,993m), nearer to the latter. There have been no previous official attempts. Ghandarbha Chuli is on the permitted list as a peak that can only be attempted by foreign team if it forms a joint expedition with Nepalis. Including cooks and helpers the two Romanians had eight Nepalis on their expedition. The team set up base camp on the 2nd May at 3,857m (GPS), at the confluence of the Modi Khola and the river that runs north from Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak). Next day, with the help of some of their Nepalese companions, they made an advanced base below the…

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On 16 April 2011 Geordie and myself climbed our way up a new route “Lost in Translation” on Le Brevent (Les Aiguilles Rouges, massif du Mont-Blanc) above Chamonix. We left in the early afternoon with the intent of climbing ‘Frison Roche’ but a walk down the ski slope and the snow accumulation at the base of the wall which we circumvented by two abseils deposited us way more to the left at the very base of the wall. We spotted a line and I climbed the first 35m pitch under the horrifying whistle of rockfall liberated from the wall by the early afternoon sun. Brick and coffee-table sized chunks wizzed by and I found solace under a small, illusory protecting, roof 35 or so meters up. Geordie carried on with the next three pitches – more a collection of curiously balanced rubble and interesting cracks. The last two pitches to…

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Skiing and possibly a first ascent… Another sorry attempt to ski brought me to another beautiful trip to the mountains. This time i went with my friends from Cluj, Adrian and Oana, to Fagaras Mountains (Balea Lake area). In the previous week Adi tempted me with some pictures of some alpine walls there while, I dare to suspect, his (not-so) secret plan was to actually get me on skis… Heavy snow obvious on the ascent to Balea lake made two things clear: not so great being on walls and great powder for skiing. Upon arrival at the mountain rescue hut we had a quick lunch and we set off skiing – me on borrowed Silvrettas and in my climbing boots. Not such a great idea. Uphill was sweet, especially since the snowboarders were battling hip deep powder snow. Downhill in the adjacent valley was not so great…. I am no…

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