Chamonix Mountain Festival – June 2013 on TV Mountain
Voie Caline Goulotte Chere Valee Blanche
First Ascent Khhang Shiling, 6360m by the NE Face & Attempt Kullu Makalu 6349m by the N Face
INDIA, BARA SHIGRI GLACIER First Ascent Khhang Shiling, 6360m by the NE Face Attempt Kullu Makalu 6349m by the N Face During 20 July – 10 August 2013 we have taken part in “Climbathon 2013”, an event organised and sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. From Romania we were 3 people: two guides (myself and Mr. Mihnea Prundeanu) and one student (Mr. Vasile Dumitrica). The event took part on the Bara Shigri area and had several objectives: exchange of information and experience between Indian mountaineers and Western mountaineers (besides Mr Prundeanu and myself there was another facilitator from Scotland/USA, Dr. Paul Schweizer); focus on alpine style ascents; the ascent of several peaks in the area. With 10 instructors (of which 3 foreign) and over 60 participants (of which, besides the Indian nationals there were also one from Brazil, one from Romania and one from Italy) this was…
Interviu eClimb iunie 2013
Interviu de George Stroie (Bivuac) Versiunea originala este aici: http://eclimb.ro/articole.php?crt=57&n=Gandharva_Chuli-o_premiera_in_Himalaya de ce Gandharva Chuli ? Din cel putin doua motive: pentru cum arata si pentru ca era, cum se spune uzual, virgin (o expresie nefericita cred eu). Am un ‘dosar’ cu proiecte – munti pe care i-am vazut in alte expeditii sau in poze, in carti sau pe internet. Toate aceste proiecte au in comun faptul ca prezinta munti interesanti, estetici, cu linii (trasee potentiale sau existente) frumoase, logice, naturale. Gandharva Chuli, mai exact peretele sau sud-vestic, era un astfel de munte intrezarit in niste poze dintr-un ghid de trekking al regiunii Annapurna. Alpinismul il vad, in principal, ca pe o aventura. O aventura care implica si un bagaj tehnic specific insa in esenta o aventura – la fel cum este o calatorie cu pluta pe ocean sau cu schiurile la poli. Spre deosebire de escalada care ma incanta…
Gandharva Chuli – First Ascent – 4-6 May 2013
Words by Lindsay Griffin Romanians Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean have made the first ascent of Ghandarbha Chuli, a snow and ice peak on the eastern rim of the Annapurna Sanctuary. Ghandarbha Chuli (a.k.a Gandharva, and formerly the Gabelhorn, 6,248m) lies on the ridge connecting Annapurna III (7,553m) to Macchapuchhare (6,993m), nearer to the latter. There have been no previous official attempts. Ghandarbha Chuli is on the permitted list as a peak that can only be attempted by foreign team if it forms a joint expedition with Nepalis. Including cooks and helpers the two Romanians had eight Nepalis on their expedition. The team set up base camp on the 2nd May at 3,857m (GPS), at the confluence of the Modi Khola and the river that runs north from Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak). Next day, with the help of some of their Nepalese companions, they made an advanced base below the…
Shishapangma 2011 – EN
In 2011 “Alpine Style Expeditions” Ltd organized and developed on behalf of “Li Ka Shing Foundation” (HK) and the University of Shantou (PRC) and in collaboration with “TRM” ltd and mountaineering program of which details we present below. With the final goal of opening a new route, alpine style, on the South West Face of the 8013m peak Shishapangma in the Tibetan Himalayas and introducing a group of 20 university (STU) students to the life and rigors of expedition life, the project started with compiling the various teams that were to take part in this project and their preparation. “Alpine Style Expeditions” was responsible of organizing the logistics, providing the safety staff and safety protocols, offer the climbing guides, the facilitation and instructional staff and prepare the climbing team. “TRM” was responsible of student coordination, liaison between the “Li Ka Shing Foundation”, “Shantou University” and “Alpine Style Expeditions” as well…
Shishapangma 2011 – RO
Intre 25 August 2011 si 10 Octombrie 2011 “Alpine Style Expeditions” a organizat in beneficiul Fundatiei Li Ka Shing (Hong Kong) si a Universitatii Shantou (China) o expeditie in Himalaya. Liderii expeditiei: Cosmin Andron si Waiwah Yip Din Romania au mai participat: Cristina Pogacean (atlet sponsorizat) si Catrinel Pogacean (BC manager) Obiectivele acestei expeditii au fost: (1) organizarea unor cursuri de alpinism pentru un grup de 20 de studenti si 4 profesori din cadrul STU (zona Shishapangma) (2) realizarea unui documentar despre experienta studentilor in expeditie, documentar realizat de catre o casa de productie din Hong Kong (10 staff – cameramani, sunetisti, producator si regizor) (3) incercarea de a deschide un traseu nou, tehnic, in stil alpin pe peretele sud-vestic al Shishapangma (un atlet de origine chineza, sponsorizat de LKSF urmand a fi ghidat) (4) in limita timpului disponibil o ascensiune a Cho Oyu pe traseul normal in maniera “self…
So Much Light (Alpinist #35) A writing piece from 2011 about climbing Cassin Ridge on Denali.
The Climbing Life Pointillism on Castle Mountain. Stream-of-consciousness on Denali. Enlightenment and burger grease in Montana. Several ascents of Slawston Bridge. And the story of Tami Knight’s first mountain. Click here to get Alpinist Magazine Issue 35 – Summer 2011
New route on Les Aiguilles Rouges, massif du Mont-Blanc – Le Brevent SE face
On 16 April 2011 Geordie (Waiwah Yip) and myself climbed our way up a new route “Lost in Translation” on Le Brevent (Les Aiguilles Rouges, massif du Mont-Blanc) above Chamonix. We left in the early afternoon with the intent of climbing ‘Frison Roche’ but a walk down the ski slope and the snow accumulation at the base of the wall which we circumvented by two abseils deposited us way more to the left at the very base of the wall. We spotted a line and I climbed the first 35m pitch under the horrifying whistle of rockfall liberated from the wall by the early afternoon sun. Brick and coffee-table sized chunks wizzed by and I found solace under a small, illusory protecting, roof 35 or so meters up. Geordie carried on with the next three pitches – more a collection of curiously balanced rubble and interesting cracks. The last two…
Enjoying Odin (Review)
I hate cold! I love alpine climbing! Quite hard to reconcile the two and quite a lot of misery to have been through to do what I love. That until recently… Everything about going to climb in Alaska sounded exciting and fascinating. Everything in pictures looked cool and inviting. Everything but the dreadful ‘it’ll be cold as hell’ (well, if hell would be in reverse, but you get the point….). Arriving at home in two big boxes an Odin sleeping bag, a Sirius jacket, booties and mitts put a massive smile on my face. The warm sunrays of a beautiful spring day looked like the best omen. The Odin began its business as soon as ten days after being born, and it was a busy month. For thirty straight days it lay, literally, in between the cold and me. The bag weighs 1836g and packs incredibly small. Changing the original…
Porphyry in Parm. Comm.
Porphyry’s Commentary to Plato’s Parmenides Translation from Ancient Greek, Introduction and Notes: Cosmin Andron and Gabriel Chindea ISBN 978-973-50-2778-0 Finally the book is out…. Only took about 10 years since the first draft…. Of these, in the last 5 I could not even care less about the subject and if it were not for Gabi’s persistence this would have been another book kept in the drawer never to see the print. Yet now I am glad it is out, although, being away, on a different continent, I am yet to touch the hard copy. It all started with my MA dissertation and turned into serious research that took me to Dublin, London, Prague, Oxford and Paris. Work we divided equally although I must admit, the finer touches and the wrap-up are all Gabi’s, and all done at a time when Neoplatonism was background interest for me. LINK HERE